Taroko Gorge, for several decades one of Taiwan’s premier attractions, has been closed to tourists since a powerful earthquake ravaged the region on April 3, 2024. While the section of Highway 8 that goes through the gorge is technically open to private vehicles, it suffered further damage during Typhoon Kong-rey at the end of October. Torrential rains brought by the typhoon ‘triggered landslides, damaged roadbeds, and destroyed guardrails… since then landslide clearance and roadbed repairs have been ongoing alongside reconstruction efforts’, according to Taroko National Park’s website.
The authorities are discouraging non-essential use of the road, and those who choose to drive between Hualien and Dayuling (where it’s possible to turn south towards Sun Moon Lake or to continue northwest to the fruit-growing district of Lishan) are sure to face significant delays. As repair work continues, traffic is only allowed to proceed during designated time slots (currently 7am to 8am, 10am, 12 midday to 1pm, 3pm, and 5pm to 5.30pm. For at least the next year, visitors won’t be able to stop to take photos or enjoy any of the gorge’s hiking trails.
The situation for those trying to reach Hualien from the north via the Suhua Highway isn’t much better. Fortunately Hualien and Taitung are still accessible by road or railway from Pingtung County. All of Taitung County’s attractions — which include the hot springs and forest recreation area at Zhiben, Sanxiantai Bridge, and Luye Highland — came through the recent natural disasters unscathed. And because transport issues continue to put off domestic tourists coming from Greater Taipei, the tranquility for which Taiwan’s eastern half is renowned is easier than ever to find!
The closure of Taroko Gorge is without doubt a tragedy, especially for those who’ve never experienced this natural wonder, this ‘symphony in marble’. Even so, we feel Hualien and Taitung still offer a huge amount to those willing to make the trip.
Religious and cultural diversity
At Tzu Chi Cultural Park, you can learn about the role of Buddhism in modern society and the work of the Buddhist Tzu Chi Charity Foundation, now one of the world’s largest relief organisations. As of mid-2024, it had active volunteers in 68 countries and relief projects in 136 countries. 
On the south side of Hualien City, two very different places of worship are sure to intrigue you. One is Shengan Temple, a remarkably colourful array of towers, pavilions, and altars devoted to honouring the Queen Mother of the West, a truly ancient pre-Taoist deity. Since her apparition here in 1949, local followers have built a religious organisation that now engages in charity work as far away as Haiti.
Yoshino Shrine is the other. It was founded in 1917 as an outpost of Shingon Buddhism, a sect that attracted few Taiwanese followers but which was popular among the Japanese settlers then moving into the area. The complex contains 88 non-identical stone Buddhas, alluding to the famous 88-temple pilgrimage route around Japan’s Shikoku Island. Because Yoshino Shrine operates as a tourist attraction rather than a place of prayer, there’s a small admission charge (NT$30 for adults, NT$15 for children). This is noteworthy because entry to churches and temples throughout Taiwan is almost always free.
A bit further south there’s another religious relic from the period of Japanese rule. On a hillside looking over Yuli, the remnants of a Shinto shrine recall both the colonial era and the postwar during which many such structures were vandalised by the island’s new regime. Not far from there, the railway was rerouted a few years ago to avoid a geological boundary that lies concealed beneath the bed of the Xiuguluan River. Because the east bank is part of the Philippine Sea Tectonic Plate, while the west is on the Eurasian Plate, the constant shifting meant the authorities had to realign the tracks every two years. The road bridge that runs parallel to the old railway has to be corrected every few years; if you drive across, you’ll notice a bilingual sign marking the junction between the two tectonic plates. Those travelling with children often stop here for a photo and turn it into a teachable moment.
Chishang is synonymous with high-quality rice. In fact, so good is the grain grown here that during the colonial era it was supplied to the Japanese royal household. These days, the paddy fields which surround this little town aren’t just a source of a delectable commodity but also a tourist attraction in their own right. If you look closely at sacks of local rice, you might spot the letters TGAP. This stands for Taiwan Good Agricultural Practice, a set of standard procedures which farmers are encouraged to follow to ensure the quality and safety of their produce, while at the same time reducing pesticide and fertilizer use. The authorities have so far issued more than 100 TGAPs for a wide range of crops, farmed fish, poultry, and livestock.
Intact indigenous cultures
Luye Township’s Longtian Village was established just over a century ago to attract immigrants from Japan’s Home Islands. It isn’t the only place in the east where traces of Japanese settlement can be seen, but it’s one of the loveliest. For those driving towards Taitung City, stopping here for at least an hour is recommended.
Whether the tourists come or not, life in the east’s indigenous villages continues at a pace determined by the season. Whether they’re cultivating rice, ginger, millet, djulis (native red quinoa), or premium fruits such as the sweetsop (aka custard apple or sweet apple), they rise early to work their land and look forward to colourful festivals. In addition to the Atayal, Amis, Puyuma, and Paiwan people, there are smaller Austronesian ethnic groups such as the Kavalan, Sakizaya, and Rukai. With the help of a good driver-guide — the driver part is essential, as few of these communities are easy to reach by public transport — you can learn something about their rich culture and experience the heartfelt hospitality for which they’re known.
Let us know if your interests are mainly cultural or natural and how many days you can spend in Taiwan. Life of Taiwan’s experienced itinerary designers will map out the trip of a lifetime, a journey that moves at just the right pace while meeting your accommodation and culinary expectations. Contact us today to get the ball rolling!